If there’s one dish that captures the soul of Portuguese cuisine, it’s bacalhau — salt cod. Often called the faithful friend, bacalhau has over a thousand recipes in Portugal, from creamy casseroles to grilled fillets and golden codfish fritters.
Whether you’re visiting Lisbon for a few days or planning a longer stay, trying at least one bacalhau dish is a must. But not all bacalhau is created equal — and some places get it just right. Here’s a local guide to help you taste the very best.
What Is Bacalhau and Why Is It So Famous?
Bacalhau (pronounced bah-kah-lyow) is dried and salted Atlantic cod, traditionally imported from Norway or Iceland, and soaked in water before cooking.
It became a staple in Portuguese households centuries ago and is still deeply rooted in the culture. Today, it’s served everywhere — from local taverns to fine dining restaurants — each with its own twist.
Some of the most popular versions include:
- Bacalhau à Brás – shredded cod with onions, thin fries, eggs and parsley
- Bacalhau com Natas – creamy codfish and potato gratin
- Bacalhau à Lagareiro – grilled with olive oil, garlic and roasted potatoes
- Pasteis de Bacalhau – crunchy codfish fritters, great as a starter or snack
🍽️ Where to Eat Bacalhau in Lisbon: Top Restaurants
1. Laurentina – O Rei do Bacalhau (Marquês de Pombal)
This legendary spot lives up to its name: “The King of Cod”. Their menu features over 10 cod dishes, with Bacalhau à Lagareiro being the star. It’s a spacious, well-priced restaurant popular with locals and tourists alike.
📍 Avenida Conde Valbom 71A
2. Zé da Mouraria (Mouraria)
Famous for its Bacalhau à Zé do Pipo, this small, authentic eatery is always packed — and for good reason. Huge portions, home-style food, and a down-to-earth vibe make it a must-visit.
📍 Rua João do Outeiro 24
3. Casa do Bacalhau (near Areeiro)
A charming restaurant housed in a former palace stable, entirely dedicated to cod. Try the Bacalhau com Broa (with cornbread crust) or the chef’s special daily bacalhau.
📍 Rua do Grilo 54
4. A Licorista O Bacalhoeiro (Baixa)
A budget-friendly spot right in the center of town, ideal for a quick and honest bacalhau dish. Perfect if you’re exploring downtown Lisbon and want a casual meal.
📍 Rua dos Sapateiros 218
5. Solar dos Presuntos (Avenida da Liberdade)
Fancier, but a classic. While it’s more known for seafood and northern Portuguese cuisine, the Bacalhau à Narcisa here is excellent and well-balanced.
📍 Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 150
6. D’Bacalhau (Parque das Nações)
Located near the river and perfect after a visit to the Oceanário or the cable car. They specialize in — you guessed it — cod. Great views, modern setting, and many traditional dishes.
📍 Rua da Pimenta 45
7. Tasca da Esquina (Campo de Ourique)
Run by renowned chef Vítor Sobral, this modern take on Portuguese cuisine includes codfish reinvented with creativity and flavor. More upscale, ideal for foodies.
📍 Rua Domingos Sequeira 41C
8. Taberna da Rua das Flores (Chiado)
Trendy, small, and charming — it’s one of those places that makes cod feel gourmet. They have rotating dishes, so call ahead or go early. Expect a wait, but it’s worth it.
📍 Rua das Flores 103
🍷 Bonus Tip: Pair It With Portuguese Wine
Ask for a Vinho Verde or a Douro red — both work beautifully with the saltiness and richness of bacalhau. And don’t skip dessert… trust me.
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